More sights of Petra

In case you haven't seen enough of my Eid trip to Petra, Hal's uploaded her photos to Flikr as well.

See them all here.

Two cameras are so much better than one.

Spooky night

Happy Halloween everyone!

If it weren't for the halloween party commercials I hear on Canadian radio stations over the web, I swear the day would pass right by without notice. Hope the kiddies enjoy their trick or treating and the adults enjoy their costume parties :)

Patience and the cold

I had two interviews today. Both were in office buildings beside busy roads. Both interviewees had their windows open during the interview.

Want to know what I hear when I play back the interviews on my digital recorder?

HONKING.

Thank goodness I had enough sense to realise the sound may be interfering and I asked them both to close their windows. But still, the noise can be heard in the background as people slam on their horns in the street below.

Drivers: Patience is a virtue. Aggression is not.

I think in order for people to get their driver's licenses here, they should make it mandatory that every trainee memorize this mantra. Maybe they should throw in some anger management lessons as well.

* * *

I never thought I'd say this, but... I'm COLD.

Something has happened to my blood while I've been here. It no longer runs warmly through my veins, acting like a self-sufficient furnace. The sun and blue sky business all summer long encouraged those warm blood cells to take a little vacation and now they haven't come back when I need them the most!

It doesn't help that I live in a stone apartment with the heat-retaining capabilities of a ... well, a stone.

It's gotten so chilly in my apartment at night that I wouldn't be surprised to wake up and see my breath before me. Not only do I sleep with double layers of clothing, but I've also thrown on my extra set of sheets and my towels too!

This is the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard happening to a Canadian. And it's only October!

I must be ill.

Could someone PLEASE explain to me...

... why when I have a six-month multiple entry visa I am still required to get a visa extension every three months? What was the point of paying for a six-month visa!?

... why the guy giving me my visa extension couldn't just extend it a little longer so I don't have to come back on December 2nd to get yet ANOTHER extension??

... why the cop wouldn't take our doctor's letters? The ones we had been told would do the trick - ensuring, in English and in Arabic, that we were healthy?

... why he told us we need blood tests from the Ministry of Health in order to register at the police station? Because all along we've been told by other foreigners that they never had to do a blood test. And when we went to another station, the lady there stamped the passports no questions asked and with no mention of a doctor's letter or blood test!

... why we have to register at the police station at all? Our visas have been approved ages ago. We've been let in. We've been living here for weeks, months already! NOW you want to check us out?

... why only one guy in the whole police station is trained to do the registrations? So when he's not there we're S-O-L.

... why you have to go to one station to renew your visa and to another to register? Why can't we just take care of everything in one spot? It would keep us from having to drive all over the city!

... and why there are no parking spots anywhere?!

This morning we finally saw an end to the the insane registration fiasco. It took four hours of driving all over the place to take care of it all: the mandatory registration, the fees for being late (you're supposed to register in the first month) and getting a visa extension.

FOUR HOURS.

And this was after we spent ages trying to get doctor's letters from home and then have them translated into Arabic here.

Of course all that effort on the letters was for nothing, as you can tell from my rant above. I was practically ripping my hair out today, wondering who's bright idea it was to make everything so bloody inefficient??

I think J. Salcedo had it right when he said, "Bureaucracy is the art of making the possible impossible."

Sure is.

And I saw it at its finest this morning. Thanks Jordan for the demonstration.

Another time, another world

Have you ever been in a place with a landscape so foreign, so unlike anything you’ve ever seen that you’d swear you were in another world?

My two-day trip to Petra was just that. The mountain landscape around the town of Wadi Musa in the south of Jordan was more reminiscent of an alien planet found in Star Wars or the prehistoric city I’d imagine the Flintstones living in, than anything belonging to our own earth.

The rolling sandstone, uniquely carved mountain peaks and of course, the Nabataean city itself, were majestic. See all the photos here.

And the highlight of my trip, the Treasury or Al-Khazneh, did not disappoint!

I tried my best, as we made our way from the entrance point to the Siq, to pretend the other tourists weren’t there. As we passed each beautifully-carved structure and each mysterious tomb and passed through the winding Siq, I tried to imagine what it would have been like for the Nabataeans (who settled in the area around the 6^th century BC) and then the Romans (who took over in AD 106) to have lived here.

I tried to picture this rock city receiving caravans from all points of Arabia, bringing frankincense, myrrh and spices through the narrow valleys to rest and to trade for new animals and exchange currency with the Nabataeans before moving west across the Sinai to the ports of Gaza and Alexandria, to be shipped to Greece and Rome.

I tried, with difficulty, to imagine 30,000 people living here during Petra’s glory days under King Aretas IV (8 BC-AD 40).

It was much easier to visualize the city’s lost days, where for almost 500 years Petra was a forgotten outpost, known only to local Bedouin. What must it have been like for that lone Swiss explorer to ride through that valley, disguised as a Muslim holy man, and discover the isolated, mythical city?

I succeeded in some efforts to pretend I wasn’t walking through the place with the thousands of other tourists as if in an amusement park or a zoo. But with everyone following one another’s path, cameras continually clicking away and groups of people huddling around their tour guides, pointing out one feature or another, it wasn’t an easy task.

No matter. I thoroughly enjoyed my adventure. Here are some of the highlights, with help from my trusty Lonely Planet:

The Djinn Blocks - Built in the 1st century AD, these three giant "Spirit" blocks found on the path to the Siq are thought to have been tombs or a dedication to the Nabataean god Dushara. The Arabic word djinn is the source of the English word "genie".

The Obelisk Tomb - Featuring a mix of Greek, Egyptian and Nabataean architectural design, this tomb housed five bodies in the upper level and has a three-banked dining room in the lower level where annual feasts were held to commemorate the dead.

The Siq - The entrance to this 1.2 km pathway was once topped by a Nabataean monumental arch (as seen in David Roberts' lithograph of the 1840s) that crumbled apart at the end of the 19th century. The Siq was not carved out by water, as most canyons are, but instead it was once a single block that cracked apart as a result of earthquakes and tectonic movements. The walls of the Siq feature relief carvings and waterways that allowed the Nabataeans to channel water into the city from the Wadi Musa river. Sections of the Siq floor still show the Roman pavings and huge cobblestone road. Not the most practical stuff to have to trek over!

The monumental arch at the entrance of the Siq, as seen in David Roberts' lithograph in the 1840s, and how it looks today.

The Treasury - The star structure of Petra's rose red city, the Treasury was actually created to serve as a tomb for the Nabataean king Aretas III. It gets its name from a story that an Egyptian pharaoh hid his treasure here while pursuing the Israelites. Some locals believed his treasure was hidden in the giant urn on the second level and tried in vain to break it open by shooting at it with their rifles. Of course, it's solid rock, so they didn't get very far.

On either side of the structure, regularly-spaced niches show that the builders used a form of scaffolding to carve out the facade.

*For Indiana Jones' fans: I have to report that my investigations of the interior of the Treasury did not turn up any immortal Knights of the Crusades nor did it turn up the Holy Grail. In fact, the interior was quite disappointing after seeing the film's booby-trapped path to the Grail and the leap o' faith chasm. All that was inside was one musty, dark room.

The Tombs - Everywhere you looked in the mountains, dark tiny doorways mark the hundreds of tombs carved for the civilizations' dead. Now empty, most are filled with sand and litter and one I happened to stick my head into reeked like there still were dead bodies there. Some are at risk of being buried forever in the rising valley floor - as annual floods bring in more debris and sand.

Colonnaded Street - This was Petra's city centre, built in 106 AD by the Romans over an existing Nabataean thoroughfare. Some of the original marble columns lining the street still exist, although they were re-erected after the city's discovery. This place was once full of markets and represented the commercial hub of the city.

Qasr al-Bint - Meaning "Castle of the daughter" this free-standing temple (the only one in Petra) was built as a dedication to the Nabataean god Dushara and was probably the main place of worship in the city.

* * *

I've heard from several sources, including Petra National Trust - the private organization dedicated to the site's management and preservation - that the attention the ancient city receives every year from tourists is actually harming the precious sandstone structures.

Studies have been done showing extreme erosion over the years on some surfaces from the thousands of footprints every day, as well as decay from the increased humidity levels from the human presence.

The problem is, the city relies on tourists coming in to help pay for the site's upkeep. And yet, it's the tourists that are doing the most harm.

It's no wonder the Bedouin kept Petra a secret for so long.

But then a white man snuck his way in and before they knew it, the world was at their doorstep - kicking them out of their homes and stomping all over their ancient city.

Is it so selfish of us to want to see a place of such beauty? I feel guilty for being one of those tourists, but I have to hope the money raised by our visits will do some good in the end.

Before it's too late, preferrably.

* * *

Other photos of note:

Hoping to milk the Indiana reference for all it's worth, this shop owner had the right idea. Too bad nothing sold inside had anything to do with the movie at all. Strangely enough, a few shops down there was one place called "Titanic Gift Shop" with a big image of the ill-fated ship on the sign. I was left puzzled at the link to Petra...

This camel decided he needed a break from hauling the tourists around and took a drink from a water bottle.

These poor donkeys seemed to be treated pretty badly by their owners. I caught one kid throwing stones at his donkey to get it to move and I shouted at him and was tempted to chuck a rock at him and see how much he liked it.

This guide took an unwanted apple and fed it to his camel with his mouth. The camel doesn't even look like a camel with its neck stretched out like that -- looks more like some sort of alien desert creature.

Article: Hospitality jobs

Published in The Jordan Times, October 23, 2006

New industries challenge culture of shame

By Grace Peacock

AMMAN — With the growth of Jordan’s tourism industry and availability of new jobs in the hospitality sector, the country’s so-called culture of shame is slowly diminishing and a culture of acceptance is on the rise.

Aseel Mreish, 21, is a student at the Jordan Applied University and College of Hospitality and Tourism (JAU). Though she and her other female colleagues make up only 10 per cent of the school’s population, she’s already making headway in the hospitality industry as a reservation clerk at Le Royal Hotel.

“Many people say it’s shameful to work in hotels and girls shouldn’t be allowed to work there… but society needs to change their traditions, be open to others and know that not only does it improve my personality, but I get a high salary too,” Mreish said.

She’s worked at the hotel for two years and was awarded Employee of the Year in 2005. She knows she’s fortunate to have the support of her family in pursuing her diploma in hotel management.

“So many people have this view that a hotel is not a place for girls but I have proved that I can do it… and I encourage all females to work in the hospitality industry if they want to,” she said.

Muhsen Makhamreh, the dean of JAU, said not all students have such support from family and friends.

“Some families are understanding, but some are not. Parents worry about their daughters and where they work,” he said, explaining that the exposure to different cultures and the late shifts in hotel work are often looked down upon.

“The idea of being in a place of entertainment, with foreigners and mixing with members of the opposite sex is not favoured… They feel it could influence their morals and they are afraid of it,” Makhamreh said.

The JAU was founded in 1980 as the Ammoun College and was renamed in 2004 as part of a redevelopment strategy funded by the Ministry of Planning and International Cooperation and the American International Development Agency. The university offers a range of bachelor degrees and diploma programmes in hospitality management, tourism and travel management and culinary arts. The average fee is JD50 per credit hour for the bachelor degree programmes and JD30 per credit hour for the diploma programmes. Sponsorship opportunities are available for students who require financial aid.

Currently there are about 500 students registered with the school and though there are still few females, their enrollment is on the rise.

Makhamreh said the need for income is pushing people to consider jobs in tourism and hospitality.

“It’s not changing because of the culture, it’s changing because of the financial need. If I have no job, I will go anywhere to get money,” Makhamreh said, recalling a man who came to the school to enroll one of his seven daughters. He said the family needed money and he didn’t care where she ended up working.

Male students occasionally run into their own troubles regarding their chosen career path.

Several students at the school come from large tribal families in Jordan and Makhamreh has heard that a few of them are teased by their relatives who believe jobs as chefs and hotel workers are demeaning.

“We need to enlighten people and show them that these are professions that can bring them money without any shame,” he said.

Fuad Yousef Bustanji, 28, graduated from a vocational training programme at a school in Sahab and has been working as a chef at the Marriott Hotel for 10 years. He is very fond of his job and says cooking runs in the family.

“Two of my brothers are chefs and I have one cousin who was a chef on a cruise ship that went all over the world. Ever since I was young and heard of his stories, I knew I would love the job,” Bustanji said, adding that interacting with the restaurant patrons is a highlight of his job.

The long hours get him in trouble with his wife on occasion, but besides that, he’s happy with his JD700 per month salary and says he’s never felt shamed by his work. Over the years he’s seen more women take on jobs in hotel kitchens and he currently helps train students at the hotel who want to become chefs.

Musa Shteiwi, director of the Jordan Centre for Social Research, believes people’s attitudes towards these jobs and other occupations in the service industries have little to do with culture.

“It’s true people do refrain from working certain jobs because of sociological reasons but this is not culturally rooted. The problem is that the work conditions and salaries have not been attractive to Jordanians,” he said.

Jobs with long hours, low pay and lack of benefits have, in the past, been filled by foreign workers and over time, these jobs developed an association with low social status, Shteiwi said.

“It’s changing now. The longer we have exposure to urban society, the faster we will progress,” he added, because, “we may live in a big city but we still live with a village mentality. Urbanisation is only in form. We need some cultural change, but at the same time we need to change the conditions of work as well.”

Jittery nerves and holiday plans

Two cats are scrapping outside my window and it's freaking me out. What a horrible noise! At first I thought it was a kid crying, but the intermittant hissing tipped me off that it was actually a battle of feline territorial rights.

From the sounds of it there will be no survivors.

And then not 20 seconds ago some kid set off a cherry bomb in the alleyway. I jumped out of my chair and banged my knee on my desk. This was followed by a lot of cursing.

I don't think my nerves have ever been this shot. I'm going to be a wreck when I get home.

* * *

Tomorrow is the last day of Ramadan.

I'm pleased to say goodbye to the inconvenient office hours (not mine, but everyone else's. No one is available when you want them to be, nor are the shops open when you want them to be); goodbye to the traffic jams (particularily around 2 p.m. when offices and shops close and around 6 p.m. when everyone is rushing home for Iftar. It has been virtually impossible to find taxis at these times); goodbye to the grumpy people (who are nasty cause they can't smoke or eat or drink during the day and like to take it out on poor foriegn girls); goodbye to eating discreetly at work; and goodbye to prohibition of alcohol!

It was fascinating though to observe the Holy month and the transformation the city and its people underwent. I'm glad for the experience.

Starting Tuesday is Eid - the Islamic festival celebrating the end of Ramadan. I believe this goes on for a few days, during which time offices are closed - including the newspaper!

Care to know what I'm doing in my time off?

VISITING PETRA!

I have already written about my fascination with this place. It's been high on my priority list since before I even arrived in Jordan. I can't wait to walk through the Siq and feast my eyes upon the Treasury...

Course I'll have to dart my way through the insane crowds and get really creative in order to take any photographs with less than 10 people in it, but I'll cope the best I can.

Chopping away at film

I love movies. I enjoy having a two hour reality break from the real world. I am amazed by the art of cinematography and the magic of bringing a story to life on screen. Movies are a great exercise of the imagination.

I would think the directors and producers behind each film grow to be very proud of their accomplishment, after months (often years) of work involved with each project.

I can only imagine how horrified they would be to discover their masterpieces cut up, pieced back together and shown to the public as a finished work.

This happens often here with films at the theatre, as I've mentioned before. Scenes in movies that involve sex or other racy activities are simply cut out. The most recent film I saw at the theatre to suffer such treatment was A History of Violence.

On television I've seen editing go so far as to cut even simple kissing scenes. I swear, only half an hour of the original Pretty Woman movie ended up being aired after they were done tossing the extras onto the editing room floor.

Last night a friend and I rented Munich from a local video store. The man at the counter swore to us it was the whole film, unedited.

He was a liar.

I have several issues with this kind of censorship. First of all, the cinema ratings system should indicate what movies are appropriate for younger children and what kinds of scenes are involved. This way, people know what they're going to get and can avoid the films with "adult scenes" if they so choose and those of us who can handle them are free to watch the film in its entirety!

Second, a film (most of them anyway) should be treated like a piece of art. Would you go around with a black marker to Botticelli's paintings, blotting out the naked women? Would you tear the romance-related pages from Gone with the Wind? A film is meant to be appreciated in its entirety, as is any other form of art.

Third, if people are worried about the influences of sex upon a viewer - then why not also be concerned about the influences of violence? I cringed at many of the scenes in A History of Violence and Munich. Is seeing some guy's brains get blown out not worse than seeing a man and woman in the throes of passion? Seriously. What is the more negative contribution to this world? Violence and killing? Or love and passion?

Okay, so I'm probably stuck dealing with the censorship policies of the Middle East. Venting about them is not going to change anything.

It'd just be nice if DVDs had stickers on them indicating that the movie is edited and people like me were given a CHOICE... instead of being unpleasantly surprised after you've rented it and having to watch one scene jump jarringly to the next - all the while wondering what you've missed in between.

A little bird told me

It’s happened. A little sooner than I would have expected, but it’s happened.

One of my ex-boyfriends is engaged and due to be married.

I’m sure this scenario is a familiar one among people my age. I mean, considering the number of people we date over the years, after we part, sooner or later they’re going to find somebody and settle down. What’s unpredictable is the timing and whether it happens before or after YOU find somebody to settle down with.

I had always hoped it would happen after. In fact, in my little fantasy all my ex-boyfriends would remain single and lonely until well after the day I found Mr. Right and headed down the aisle with him.

Haha, kidding darlings.

I’m not going to comment on this particular ex-boyfriend (though I doubt he reads this site) nor am I going to say anything about his wife-to-be (mostly cause I met her once, and briefly at that so therefore I have nothing to say), or about his decision to get hitched (I’ve already said enough about that in private to my good friends… lol).

What I will say is that there were probably any number of emotions I could have expressed at the discovery of this news – the three most probable of which were: 1. indifference, 2. sorrow and jealousy, and 3. relief.

I found myself waiting, as the words confirming the news hung in the air. It was a test. The outcome of which I didn’t even know myself.

I was pleasantly surprised to discover, after the initial shock wore off and I had some time to think, that I was so relieved.

Relieved that I was still single, still independent, head-strong, and free to explore the world, choose any career path I wished, live anywhere I want and write my own story the way I want it to be written.

And so relieved it’s another girl in those shoes and not me.

For now, at least.

Congrats my dear ex-boyfriend. I wish you and your future wife the best. If it wasn’t Ramadan and alcohol was readily available, I might even drink a glass of wine to you both.

And then I’d have another and toast it to my freedom.

But that'll have to wait until at least next Tuesday.

Terracotta garbage

Normally I'm hard pressed to find a garbage can anywhere in the streets of Amman. It's really no wonder people chuck their rubbish all over the place - there's no where else to put it!

One day I came across this garbage receptacle. Not the easiest thing to empty, I bet. But at least it's something!

Oh wonderful youth

I've been tagged by Jad. While I'm not entirely sure what it means to get "tagged" I think I'm supposed to do on my site whatever it is he did on his... in this case, post a photo of myself when I was a little kid!

Although I've recently posted a photo of myself donning some fantastic giant sunglasses, I thought I'd play along and post another:

Article: Archaeology sites

Published in The Jordan Times, October 16, 2006

Undiscovered sites threatened by construction boom

By Grace Peacock

AMMAN — The country’s construction boom and the general lack of awareness in society are threatening Jordan’s archaeological heritage and resulting in the destruction of many undiscovered sites in and around the city.

This, according to the Department of Antiquities inspector of Amman, Adeib Abu Shmais, who along with five others are responsible for ensuring development sites are clear of archaeological artefacts before building begins.

If archaeological objects are found, they have to be properly documented and an excavation may need to take place.

“Sometimes we find that the developers remove things from the surface before we can inspect the site. They do this because they don’t want their work to be postponed by excavations,” Abu Shmais told The Jordan Times.

“This is a problem we have in Amman. People aren’t aware of what they may have on their land. People don’t have an appreciation for culture,” he added.

Occasionally structures under the ground are accidentally bulldozed or building sites nearby dump their materials on archaeology sites that are supposed to be protected.

Though people can be fined for such actions, Abu Shmais says a limited budget prevents the department from apprehending all offenders.

“We have only six other inspectors and we have to work with new construction in all areas of Amman. In my opinion, this is not enough,” he said.

When a developer applies for a building permit, he must also ask permission of the Department of Antiquities. Inspectors consult a survey of known archaeology sites to see if the developer’s land is within an area suspected to have artefacts or structures. If this is the case, inspectors visit the site for a surface check. If nothing is found, the developer is allowed to build.

If anything is discovered during the surface inspection, one of two things may happen, depending on the significance of the find. The Antiquities Department may undertake a “rescue” excavation if the findings are not very significant — for example, if they are tombs, ceramics, small artefacts or a small structure. Plans for building on the site are temporarily halted until the department can uncover enough of the site to properly document the discovery in the department’s files. If possible, the artefacts are removed. Then building is allowed to commence.

On occasion, the discovery may include a large structure or series of structures, in which case all development is halted and the department considers purchasing the land for full excavations, according to Department of Antiquities Director General Fawwaz Khraysheh.

“If the site is important, we will submit the case to a committee. If it is very important and is a rich site with buildings and architecture, then we decide to keep it for the department. Directly the construction should stop,” he said.

Even if the surface inspection fails to uncover anything, developers are required by law to report anything they find during construction.

Khraysheh recalls a man who discovered the remains of a church while he was building his new home. He didn’t report it and was sent to jail.

“Police in the area called us and said a man had found some archaeological remains. We sent our colleagues there and they found a mosaic floor inside what looked like a church. He was sent to prison because he didn’t tell the department what he discovered,” he said.

With the amount of construction taking place in and around the city, inspectors can only hope people keep in mind the importance of such discoveries and be honest about what they find.

Through the canyons and wadis

Trying to navigate the stairs in my apartment is a chore. I can’t do it without cringing and holding onto the wall because I have little faith that I can get up and down without my legs giving way beneath me.

This is what I get for volunteering to take a nine hour hike (11 km) through the canyons and valleys of southern Jordan. See all the photos here.

We hiked from a point near Shobak north to Feinan, just outside the Dana Reserve.

Cheryl and I woke up yesterday at a very ungodly hour to meet the bus of 23 other suckers at 5:30 a.m. (Thank you H for giving us a lift!). There we were introduced to our hike leader, a 30-something Jordanian who we secretly took to calling G.I. Joe because of his fondness of calling us his commandos, his camouflaged hike outfit and gear and the delight he took in our own physical suffering.

The guy scaled walls, jumped off boulders and hiked around with a cigarette in his mouth the whole day (that he had rolled himself) – how tough can you get?

He was very pleasant though and seemed concerned enough about my welfare, though I suspect it was only cause he didn’t want me writing something nasty about the trip in the newspaper.

The bus was less than fabulous. From the outside it looked like a regular coach bus, but on the inside it was much smaller and came without a toilet. My knees dug into the seat in front of me and because my seat adjuster was broken I was propelled back and forth every time the bus braked and accelerated. The driver also had the air conditioning cranked for the whole morning. The vents above our heads refused to shut, no matter what we tried. We froze.

By some miracle and despite all these distractions I managed to sleep most of the three hour ride down to Wadi Ghuweir.

The hike itself was amazing. We started out near Shobak, a small village north of Petra, and began our descent through the wadi (valley) through limestone, sandstone and eventually Pre-Cambrian canyons. We followed the river – or at times what was really just stagnant pools of water - passing by an olive tree grove, hanging gardens, boulder valleys, narrow siqs and moss-covered springs.

As I’m too lazy to write all the details of the trip in coherent narrative, here are some of the more interesting points in a list:

~ We saw a dead donkey. Half of the hikers missed seeing it, although it was only about a metre or two off the path, just because they were so intent on watching their footing they didn’t take the time to look around. I saw it though and managed to warn Cheryl about it before she stumbled right on top of it! It must have been there for about a week or so. Its neck was twisted at a horrible angle and we determined that it must have fallen from the top of the rock wall and broken its neck. I would have taken a photo but was too grossed out at the time. Later I scolded myself for being such a pansy and thought a REAL journalist would have steeled herself against her emotions and taken the picture for proper documentation’s sake.

~ We also saw a donkey skull. Must be a dangerous place for those guys to be walking around.

~ There were lots of live animals too: huge black centipedes the width of a fat marker and about seven inches long; crabs in the river; a variety of frogs; big yellow-jacket hornets, long-haired goats; black water beetles; and lots of birds, including buzzards who I’m sure were waiting for one of us to drop dead.

~ We spent a long time – several hours – walking through dark, narrow canyons. It felt like the walls were closing in on us and I had to shake off my claustrophobia, trying not to imagine a huge gush of water coming in from somewhere and washing us all away. The fact that flash flood season was long over provided little comfort.

~ Although the initial description given to us about the hike said “no head for heights needed” we soon discovered our guide lied or else couldn't tell the difference from high and low. We had to clamber down the sides of boulders, scale down narrow crevices and jump into pools of water – all from precariously high levels.

~ This hike was a perfect example of how small the social circles are here in Jordan. Of the 23 other hikers, it turned out I knew three from various assignments I had covered for the newspaper. Course, in our outdoor gear it took us about half the day before we recognized one another.

~ We stopped for an hour lunch and had several 10 minute breaks throughout the day so we could snack, have some water and make use of what G.I. Joe liked to call the “technical facilities”… though I’m not sure what’s so technical about it. By the end of the day going to make technical had become a big joke among the hike commandos.

- - - -

Nine hours and 11 kilometres later, with our legs feeling like lead and our bodies protesting every movement, we finally came to the end of the hike near the Dana Reserve. There three pickup trucks and their Bedouin drivers waited to take us out to our bus. We obligingly climbed into the back, held on for dear life and drove out into the sunset – stopping only once so the Bedouin could break their fast and have something to eat.

The bus ride back to Amman was hellish. I couldn’t sleep, what with the bouncing back and forth in my broken seat like one of those air-filled clown punching bags. The bus rolled along at a snail’s pace and we had to stop several times along the Dead Sea Highway at the security checks. I thought we’d never get home.

Although I could do without the sore body today, I’m really quite proud of my accomplishment. It’s a nice change to get back to basics and to explore a place without the distractions of crowds and traffic. Walking and hiking are certainly underrated and I think since I’ve arrived here I’ve gained a whole new appreciation for the activity.

It’s not something I do enough of and that’s sad to say, coming from a country boasting some of the most amazing national parks and hiking trails in the world. I think when I get home I’ll have to make a point of getting to know my own country a whole lot better.

Some things never change

Seems after 23 years I still have the same fashion sense, not to mention the same red hair. Could my sunglasses be any bigger?

Here I am, yesterday morning on the bus before our gruelling hike at Wadi Ghuwier ...

... and here I am at age three (approximately) at our old home in Aurora, Ontario, wearing mom's sunglasses.

Article: Rweished refugees

Published in the Jordan Times, October 12, 2006

Hoping for a new life

By Grace Peacock

AMMAN - After living for nearly four years in a refugee camp near the Iraqi border, four women are holding dearly to the hope that a new life will soon be found for them and their families.

"It is tragic. This is a prison," said Saleha Mohammad Nassar, a 34-year-old Palestinian, who lives in the Rweished refugee camp with her husband. "But even in a prison you know how long you will stay. Here, we don't know."

Nassar and her friends (below) Sajida Asaad Melhem, a 32-year-old Palestinian, Ikhlas Atta Aziz, a 40-year-old Iraqi, and Aida Lotfe Mohammad, a 46-year-old Palestinian, all arrived in the camp after fleeing Baghdad during the 2003 US-led war on Iraq.

There is no freedom of movement outside of the tented camp that is located near the town of Rweished, some 60km from the Iraqi border. The four women and 230 others are all that remain after resettlement options were found over the years for 1,000 refugees.

A group of 54 were recently granted residency in Canada and are expected to travel there soon.

The remaining refugees — mostly Palestinians — do not know their fate and struggle with the tensions building within the community.

"After the Canadian acceptances were announced the community was divided into two - those who were accepted and those who were rejected," said Melhem, a mother of two.

"Those who were accepted think of their future in Canada and their lives there. The rest of us are depressed and think of what will happen to us," she said, adding that even the children from the two groups have stopped playing with each other.

Aziz says watching their children grow up within the barriers of a refugee camp is heartbreaking.

“They are losing their future and we can’t do anything for them,” she said.

The camp has an elementary school where some of the women volunteer, but the education gained there is not officially recognised.

Activities at the children's centre, handicraft courses and special Ramadan activities have all but come to an end ever since CARE International - an implementing partner with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) - pulled out in 2005.

“We wake up, prepare breakfast, have lunch and dinner and then we go back to sleep,” said Aziz.

“The girls who are 12 years and older stay in the tents all day because they have nothing to do,” added Mohammad.

The women complain of poor nutrition and health though they have access to a medical clinic and health services at nearby hospitals. Some of them suffer from rheumatism, B12 deficiency, anaemia and varicose veins. Many men have high blood pressure and asthma is a common ailment as a result of the dust and sandstorms in summer.

"I am losing my nerves. I am sure most of the health problems are pshycological and due to the sad conditions we live in," said Aziz.

Along with the scorching summer heat and freezing cold winters, the camp's inhabitants also have to deal with the desert's insects and wildlife.

Melhem showed the group a plastic bag containing the bodies of a large spider and a scorpion. She said she killed them after they were discovered crawling on her two-year-old son.

"We want to start a new life and want to be able to look forward to our future and the future of our children," said Nassar.

According to the women, the Palestinian refugees believe they have been left behind on account of their nationality. Since the camp's establishment in 2003, large groups of Somalis, Sudanese, Moroccans and Iranian Kurds have left to new homes in other countries.

But representatives from the UNHCR, the organisation responsible for arranging resettlement, say the process is free from discrimination.

"They are all getting restless after being there for three-and-a-half years because they have seen many others leave," said Karmen Sakhr, the UNHCR officer in charge of the Rweished field office.

"I would feel the same if I was still in the camp after all that time, but that does not mean that the UNHCR is not working hard on their files," she said.

Robert Breen, UNHCR representative for Jordan, says the organisation is doing its best to keep the refugees as comfortable as possible despite the circumstances.

"This is a closed camp in the middle of nowhere where they have no freedom of movement. Under those conditions, any type of activity is both for community building as well as for keeping their sanity," he said.

The camp was scheduled to close by the beginning of this month, but Breen said it would continue to operate until placements are found for the remaining refugees.

"We want it closed as soon as possible but it takes time. There are people for which there may not be any solution, so I don't know what will come of it," he said.

In the meantime, Sakhr advised the women and the other refugees to accept the fact that they were not going anywhere for sometime and prepare themselves for the coming winter.

"This is their biggest challenge. They need to focus on improving their lives in the camp and face the reality that the camp is staying," Sakhr said.

The four women, however, cannot bear the idea of living in the camp any longer.

Mohammad says they are all very tired.

“We don’t have the power to take on another year here. I fear we are slowly dying,” she said

And the desert took a drink

It rained today for the first time in the four months and seven days that I've been in Jordan.

Two of my friends actually called me this morning to tell me the news, knowing how excited I'd be about it. It was just a little drizzle though - not enough for an umbrella. But enough apparently to turn the oil-slicked roads into a slippery bumper car arena.

I can't imagine what the driving will be like in a downpour.

I shudder to think.

Never again

I spent six hours in a car today.

On Friday I have to spend another six hours on the road. The thought of it makes me want to cry.

Though I try to put the distance into perspective (back home it’s the same distance from my parents’ place in Collingwood to London), I find it’s so much harder to deal with the drive when you’re a passenger. At least when you’re driving you’ve got something to do! It’s also difficult when you don’t get any pit stops along the way. The leg, back and neck cramps become unbearable.

This trip was to a small town called Ruwayshid on Jordan’s eastern border with Iraq. Two other colleagues from the paper came along for their own story assignments. I was meeting with officials from the local United Nations High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR) and several Palestinian refugees from the nearby Ruwayshid refugee camp.

Sleep would have been a nice option, were it not for the fact that on the trip back to Amman I felt a need to keep an eye on our tired driver who, for a brief stint, was driving along at 170 km/h with his eyes shut.

The guy happened to be the same driver I had on my police training centre assignment. It's becoming a tradition with us to drive to places in the middle of nowhere.

Today was particularly challenging for him as he was fasting for Ramadan. In all the time we spent on our expedition (three hours each way, plus several hours at the destination) he couldn’t drink any water or coffee or tea, nor could he eat anything.

We had to pull over a few times on the way home so he could splash his face with water from my water bottle. We all offered to drive, but he wouldn’t hear of it.

And figures we were driving along the most boring piece of road I’ve seen so far in Jordan. Nothing around you for miles and miles, save for a desert full of rocks.

More cars appeared on the roads the closer we came to Amman. Along with this came new hazards.

The drivers of cars, buses, trucks and 18-wheelers liked to play kamikaze games of chicken. They passed on hills and passed when there was clearly not enough time to get in front before the guy coming the other way had to slam on his brakes. All this in zones clearly marked “no passing”.

My other female colleague and I screeched in protest as we snaked in and out of the big transport trucks. The only response we got was a hearty laugh from the driver and the other reporter – a Jordanian who was obviously used to the driving.

I felt like crap by the time we arrived in Zarqa – the working class city just outside of Amman. It didn’t help that the air around us was thick with exhaust and diesel fumes from the afternoon rush hour. I wanted to gag.

When I got home I dropped my things, threw off my shoes and literally fell face first into bed. Even after my nap, I still feel exhausted. So exhausted in fact, that I’ll have to continue this post another time.

I’ll just end with this: my editor wants us to start doing a few of these excursions every week. Trips to Jordan’s countryside. Places that don’t receive enough media attention. Places that will require several hours of traveling.

At first I thought this was a good idea. And it’d give me a chance to see the rest of the country.

But after the day I had, the plan has lost all of its appeal.

Perks and errors

A gift arrived for me this morning at the office - a big pack of dates and an invitation to a media iftar this week. It's from an organization I wrote a story about a little while ago and I'm sure they want to get me to this dinner so they can spoon-feed me some other story leads.

If I wasn't so desperate for a good meal, I'd do the ethical thing and pass it up.

The gift also came with a card and on it they had typed my name and position.

"Grace Bickok - Senior Editor"

Nothing like a great typo and factual error for a few laughs. In this profession, it's only funny if it's someone else's mistake.

Happy Thanksgiving Canada

I hope everyone back home enjoys their Thanksgiving long-weekend and isn't too "stuffed" after the big turkey dinners! Wish I could be there!

Some kind of freak

That's what I am.

Or at least, that's what I must be in the minds of those who like to stare. I think today should be my last post regarding this phenomenon because, really, I write about it too much. I just hope this is an indication to you all of how often it happens!

After my morning interview I had time enough to come home to run some errands before I needed to be at my afternoon appointment. So I did my thing, walking around the neighbourhood. On the way back I noticed the schools had let out.

There was a group of little girls - maybe in Grade 5 - walking along the street in the opposite direction. They saw me and immediately began whispering among themselves. As they passed they all grinned, looked me up and down, burst into giggles and ran away.

Ok, so what is it?

Is my skirt accidently tucked into my underpants? (this has never happened to me thank God, but I was once witness to another girl's embarassment. Funny but awful at the same time.)

Is there a branch stuck in my hair? (totally possible. I'm always getting my hair stuck in the trees as I try to pass by them on the sidewalks. Too tall.)

Do I have a third eye growing in the middle of my forehead? (I hoped not, but you never know what's going on that you're not aware of)

To be the subject of a man's attentions is one thing, but to be laughed at by a bunch of little girls?

That made me feel real special.

Sigh.

Bone density test, anyone?

Last night I participated in my first ever "Quiz Night" at the Hyatt Hotel here in Amman.

Not sure what that is? Imagine the law society dinner party in Bridget Jones 2. Imagine the part where Bridget gets all excited about playing a fun trivia game and then sits bored for hours when she discovers all the questions are about LAW.

Substitute the questions about law for questions in Arabic and you get my night. Well... to be fair, the first half of my night. My table companions complained enough to the game organizers that they did most of the second half of the game in English. I love having persistant friends!

The Jordan Times interns.

Once I was able to contribute I had a great time. My night's claim to fame was guessing the last of the visual brainteasers the second the judge came to collect the answer sheets. It was a picture of the month of May on top of three A's. Turned out it was "Mayonnaise".

Yes, that was a high moment in my life. I'll cherish it forever.

At the end of the night they drew raffle prizes and as I never win anything, I barely registered that they had called the number on my ticket until I was suddenly being prodded by the people sitting beside me to get up!

Team effort, people! The group pitches in at Quiz Night.

I walked up to the judges table and handed over my ticket. One man took it, turned it over and started to write on it - explaining to me in Arabic what it was I won and what it was I had to do.

Seeing that he had written down his name and mobile number, I said to him, "I'm sorry, I don't speak Arabic. What did I win?"

Please don't tell me it's a date with this guy, I thought.

Even better - he told me he was a doctor and I won a free bone marrow density test for osteoporosis.

You're a bit young for it yet, he said. Perhaps I wanted to give it away to someone older?

Good idea, I thought, and went back to my table where my prize was the subject of much hilarity. Figures I finally win something and it's something I don't want.

Isn't that just life for you?

Spotlight on Trailbreaker

The Tales of a Peacock welcoming committee would like to announce the arrival of the Trailbreaker blog - What you want... You Don't Get!

Yes, the author of the site - a good friend of mine - is a little cynical, but I figure there's still hope for him.

In cyberspace he's goes by the moniker "H" but in my world that has been Jordan for the past four months he's also known as my go-to-guy, part-time tour guide, great friend and occasional saviour!

Happy blogging - I'll be one of your site's regulars :)

Wanted: Something to do on Fridays!

It's become very difficult to find things to do on Fridays during Ramadan. Nothing is open until the afternoon because people are at the mosques, but now that stores close early for Iftar, there's only a brief window (if one at all) to do anything! Stores open again in the evening, but this doesn't quite satisfy me - someone who likes to make full use of her day off.

Today Cheryl and I went walking downtown again. Walking seems to be the only option, if you don't mind touring around empty streets with closed shops!

Then in the evening we went to the Malaysian Embassy where she had a photo assignment. Fortunately for our hungry stomachs, the nice people there invited us to join them for dinner and we got a wonderful meal out of the deal!

Here are some of my Friday photos that I've added to this Flickr set:

These two cats have taken to napping beneath my window everyday. I like them so much more when they're sleeping. I just wish they'd respect my sleep as much as I respect theirs!

And this building is Le Royal hotel on the third circle - the tallest building in my area. A lot of locals think it's ugly, but I love it because it helps me get home when I'm lost.

I just have to scan the horizon for the hotel and know if I can just get there then I'll be a hop, skip and jump from my place. Very helpful.

Amman is covered in signs. There are so many of them in some streets I wonder how anyone in a passing car could possibly find the place they're looking for?

I'm curious to know if they've got a sign bylaw. Somehow I doubt it.

Here's me at a book hut downtown. Not sure why I picked one of them up - they're all in Arabic. I think I was looking for pictures.

I just love how books seem to pour out of these tiny places. They remind me of the book huts they have along the Seine in Paris.

This camel was the nastiest thing I've seen in a long time. When we approached, Cheryl cringed and said it looked real - like it had been mummified. Upon closer inspection we discovered it was fake, but the skin and fur was real! And after being outside in the elements the camel was starting to rot away. Despite being grossed out, I insisted on a photo with the nasty camel.

At the Malaysian Embassy some ladies fill up their plates at the Iftar dinner.

The food included basmati rice with a spicy beef stew, peanut satay, barbecued chicken, some kind of turmeric fish, stuffed grape leaves, a whole bunch of veggies and tons of sweets!

We also tried a sweet and frothy Malaysian tea called teh tarik that's made with condensed milk.

All this food for free. It was nice to have a full meal for a change!

Oh, the perks of being a reporter...

That's a new one

The staring and lewd comments (or what I assume are lewd comments) have continued unabated. It's always ten times worse downtown or within my neighbourhood, but I've gotten used to the treatment. I just pretend they don't exist and keep walking.

But the other night I heard a new one. My friend and I were walking down the street to a little bar and two guys passed us. They spoke some English. We were prepared to ignore.

"Hey, hey - how are you? Beautiful ladies! Hello, hello. Where are you going tonight?" one guy said as they passed, necks craned around watching us go by.

Then he threw in something we weren't ready for.

"God bless you and your families!"

Huh. My friend and I looked at each other in disbelief. Well that's an improvement on the regular pick-up lines, I thought. How can you possibly be rude to a person who tells you something like that?

We knew better than to speak to them though and kept walking. But I realised then that not all guys on the street who talk to us are complete shmucks. Even if it was a trick, it was nice to hear.

Article: Mosaic school

Published in The Jordan Times, October 6, 2006

Mosaic school to be transformed into art, restoration institute

By Grace Peacock

AMMAN — The transformation of the Madaba Mosaic School into an art and restoration institute will help Jordan catch up on its preservation efforts at a time when archaeological discoveries far outweigh the available manpower needed to protect the sites.

“Jordan suffers because we’ve had many archaeology sites discovered in past years and several locations opened that cannot be maintained on a regular basis,” said Catreena Hamarneh, acting director of Madaba Mosaic School.

“When you think of it, there’s too much that needs to be done,” she added, estimating that there are 300 known mosaic sites in Jordan that are open to the public. The number of closed sites and sites that have yet to be discovered, she doesn’t know.

“The major locations like Jerash and Petra have no problem with site management, but it’s the smaller ones that are scattered around the country that are difficult to manage.”

Since opening in 1992, only 10 per cent of the school’s 83 graduates have gone on to work in the mosaic or restoration sector. Those who take jobs in mosaic production do so at a nontechnical level.

“This was not what we wanted,” said Hamarneh, who blames the restrictions imposed on the curriculum by the Ministry of Education and the school’s status as a vocational high school.

“There’s too much extra material, too many extra courses that prevent us from focusing on restoration and conservation,” she said.

Starting in 2007, the school will be upgraded from a high school to a college of higher education and a world centre for training in mosaic art and stone restoration. Through the cooperation of the Department of Antiquities (DoA) and the Unites States Agency for International Development, the new school will offer four academic streams for post-Tawjihi students, postgraduates and professionals.

Currently, the mosaic school accepts up to 15 students for its two-year diploma programme after grade 10.

Hamarneh says the mosaic school appeals to prospective students because they are encouraged to use the skills they develop to produce and sell their artwork. Students can also attend the school free of charge, due to full funding from the DoA.

“When we accept students we want to make sure we accept the most talented, not the most rich. I have seen students come here who could not afford to buy their own breakfast and then a year later they go on to open their own mosaic workshop,” said Hamarneh.

The mosaic school is the only one of its kind in the entire Middle East region, according to Fawwaz Khraysheh, director general of the DoA.

“If you go to France, Spain, Greece or Italy you will find many schools and workshops for mosaics. But in the whole Arab region we have just two — one workshop in Tunisia and the school here in Jordan,” he said, adding that there is a real lack of skill in the restoration of mosaics in the Middle East.

Ahmad Qaswl, a former graduate of the school and current instructor, says the school is a tribute to the country’s history.

“Mosaics are part of our cultural heritage — our ancestors’ and ours. If we did not have an institute to teach us about the basics of protection and preservation we could lose an important part of our cultural identity,” he said.

As part of their curriculum, students participate in restoring mosaic works uncovered throughout Jordan in Madaba, Amman, Ajloun, Jerash, Petra and the Baptism Site.

Hamarneh says the biggest threat to the preservation of mosaics is the influence of the environment.

“In the 1980s and 1990s there was a lot of vandalism occurring at archaeology sites and people were stealing mosaics,” she said.

“But perceptions are slowly changing and now the human threat is nearly gone. Now we have to protect them from humidity, wind damage and start putting shelters up.”

The DoA has recently required that all new site excavations must include a comprehensive plan for site restoration. This should help ensure sites aren’t left open to the elements, said Hamarneh, but there is still a large void to be filled in mosaic restoration and preservation.

The launch of the Madaba Institute for Mosaic Art and Restoration is a part of the USAID-supported Madaba Tourism Development Strategy, Siyaha, which seeks to establish Madaba as a leading regional centre of study for the restoration, conservation and production of mosaic art.

Getting the run around

I’ve been having a hell of a time with the police here in the last little while. Nothing terrible – I’m not a wanted person or anything (yet) – it’s only a confusing little matter having to do with the mandatory registration a foreigner needs to make after being in the country for one month.

While I did try to get this done in the first month, the officer who dealt with these registrations wasn’t there when I went. Why only ONE officer is trained to register foreigners is beyond me. Wouldn’t it make sense to have a bunch of people who could do it? Efficiency is a unknown concept around here.

Then time went by and I forgot about it. When I remembered, I was just too lazy to go.

But now that the new Canadian intern Cheryl is here and needs to register as well, I figured I’d take another shot at it. We called up our ever-so-helpful friend Haitham for his assistance in dealing with the officers and took a trip to the police station.

All I was expecting was the guy would check our passports, quiz us on what we’re doing in Jordan, how long we would stay and then stamp our passports. That’s all there was to it – according to what I’ve read and been told by other foreigners.

But of COURSE that’s not all there is to it. Why would something be that easy? I should have learned by now.

Instead we were told that first of all, I would have to go to another police station to pay a fee since I didn’t come within the first month (I thought it ridiculous that they couldn’t just take my money there, but kept my mouth shut), second of all, we both needed blood tests done.

Blood tests for what?? We asked incredulously. Blood tests to say we’re healthy, apparently. We figured it was to prove we don’t have AIDS.

I was furious. There’s nothing I hate more than getting the run around. Where the hell did it say that was required? I had never heard of such a thing. Besides, I was already IN the country and already HAD a Visa, why would they care about this stuff now? If there was any time for a blood test it should have been before I started living in the country!

So we left and Haitham said he’d make a few phone calls to get more information and possibly find a place where we could get this done.

A few days later he ended up going back to the station to question the officers again. This time they told him it’s not really a blood test you need, just a doctor’s letter confirming that you’re healthy.

We’re both waiting on our doctors back home to provide this letter, but I’m willing to bet the officers won’t like that it’s in English and will require us to see a Jordanian doctor and get one written in Arabic.

I’m not even sure what would happen if we skipped out on this registration altogether. Maybe they wouldn’t let us back into the country if we ever left. Or maybe they’d fine us at the border when we did try to get back in. Who knows. Better to struggle through this ridiculous process than suffer the consequences.

Almost forgot about autumn

I'm missing my favourite part of autumn - the changing of the leaves! I always loved driving through the countryside and seeing the collage of colour in the forests all around.

Here it seems Jordan can't make up its mind as to whether summer is really over, so it's hard to believe my fellow Canadians are already dealing with the chilly weather and have old man winter waiting on their doorsteps.

The hills and valleys of Caledon (where I grew up in Ontario) were perfect for fall driving. City people would make special weekend trips out to the country just so they could drive around and see the colours. Those poor urbannites, I used to think. How nice it was to have forests in your backyard and see the beauty of autumn every day!

My parents' new place in Collingwood has its fair share of autumn scenery as well. Below is a photo I took last fall of a nearby horse farm. Hard to believe it's October already and Thanksgiving is next weekend! Where has all the time gone?? It'll be Christmas before I know it...

Around town

When I first saw this I thought the home owner had some fascination with the Eiffel Tower. It was then explained to me (after the laughing stopped) that this is an antenna tower that people use on top of their homes as an esthetically pleasing alternative to the ugly ladder-type towers. OH, I said. And here I thought Paris had come to the Middle East.

And this monstrosity is the much-loathed Abdoun bridge currently under construction. The thing resembles a sling shot and has thus been appropriately nicknamed. It and its associated tunnels have caused mayham throughout the area with detours making the simplest route difficult to navigate. It's a shame I probably won't ever see the thing finished.

Tricky lights

While out driving around downtown with a friend one evening we came to a stop in the middle of a road. I looked around, expecting to have some important landmark pointed out to me as I assumed this was the reason we had come to a halt. Why else would we have stopped in the middle of the road, unless there was something to see?

After a few moments of silence, I turned and asked, "What are you doing? Why are we stopped?"

"Cause the light's red," he said, pointing out my window to the right.

I would be in so much trouble if I was driving a car on these roads.

Not only is the traffic insane but traffic lights are in the weirdest places. Half the time I don't even notice them as we pull up to intersections.

I rarely ever see a traffic light hanging in front of an intersection like they are back home. Instead they're placed either above the road where you're parked waiting to get into the intersection or to the left or right of the intersection, by the curb.

This causes some problems. The ones above the road end up on top of the first cars in line and how are you expected to see it unless you've got a sun roof?

And if you pull up too far, the traffic lights to the side of the cars end up behind you and the only indication you receive that it's changed is that everyone behind you starts honking like madmen.

Even if you do stop within a good distance of the intersection, you still end up hunched down, watching out the window over your passenger's lap to see the light.

I don't know how this placement ever made any sense to anybody, but I guess you get used to it.

The other thing they have here are traffic lights with countdown screens to tell you how much longer you have to wait until the light changes. While these can be useful I can't help but feel like we're at some starting line, waiting for a race to begin.

I'm sure pedestrians get the most use out of the counters. They know how much time they've got left to get their buns across the road before they're run over!

Article: Breast cancer campaign

Published in The Jordan Times, October 1, 2006

Campaign focuses on eradicating fears, social stigmas associated with breast cancer

By Grace Peacock

AMMAN — Free clinical breast exams and discounted mammograms will be conducted during October at the King Hussein Cancer Centre (KHCC) and other healthcare facilities to help eradicate the fears and social stigmas associated with breast cancer and to encourage early testing among women.

Some 75 to 80 per cent of Jordanian women with breast cancer discover their disease in the late stages. KHCC doctors and administrators at the King Hussein Cancer Foundation are hoping to change this disturbing trend, so women who do have breast cancer may have a better chance of beating the disease.

“In the United States only 20 per cent of women discover their cancer in the third or fourth stage. Here we have the reverse ratio and our aim is to turn this around,” said Dr. Mahmoud Sarhan, CEO and director general of KHCC.

The National Breast Cancer Early Detection Programme, launched Saturday, focuses on reaching women through lectures in schools, universities and community centres as well as distributing leaflets, posters and information packets around the country.

Breast cancer is the most common cancer affecting women and represents 31 per cent of all female cancers in the country, with approximately 550 cases registered each year.

Sarhan says the biggest challenge to raising awareness of the importance of early detection lies in the lack of accessible information and the fear of cancer itself.

“Many women know it’s important to get checked but they are afraid that if they get a mammogram they will find breast cancer. So they don’t go,” he said.

Part of the campaign is designed to change this perception. Women will be educated on recognising symptoms, getting regular checkups and performing self-examinations. When women are diagnosed at an early stage their survival rate is significantly higher.

Wafa Jaber, a breast cancer survivor and member of the breast cancer support group Sanad, says women are sometimes afraid of being cast away from loved ones. She has heard stories of men leaving their wives after they were diagnosed with breast cancer or after they had mastectomies. One woman in particular developed an infection after her mastectomy and her husband left her and refused financial support because the infection gave off an unpleasant odour.

“I want men to know they don’t have the right to treat women that way. They are anxious and afraid already. It’s a time they need love and support,” Jaber said.

The campaign is being organised in conjunction with the Ministry of Health and the Private Sector Project for Women’s Health (PSP) which is funded by USAID and managed by Abt Associates.

The women of Jordan are not alone, said PSP Project Director Rita Leavell.

“All over the world breast cancer has been a problem but people overcome the disease through education and there are countries where women come forward for examinations voluntarily,” she said.

“We need to raise awareness so we don’t have women showing up at hospitals in the late stages. Instead we want them to come in the early stages so they can be helped and continue to be the mainstay of their families,” Leavell added.

The free clinical breast examinations will be available at KHCC every Sunday and Wednesday during the month of October. Mammograms have been reduced to JD22 from an average cost of JD30-60 and will be available at several hospitals. These include the KHCC, Speciality Hospital, Al Amal for Maternity and Obstetric Surgery Hospital, Islamic Hospital, Amman Surgical Hospital, Al Esraa Hospital, Al Khalidi Medical Centre, Centre of Diagnostic Radiology, Specialised Centre for Radiology, Radiodiagnostic Consultation and Mammography Centre, Jubilee Radiology Centre, Jordan Centre for Radiology, Radiology Arab Centre, Radiology Jordan Clinic and Al Noor Diagnostic Radiology Centre.